Tuesday, March 26, 2013

Shooting Baseball



Like shooting any sport, you’ll always want to fill as much as the frame as possible.  I was taught to shoot tight and crop tighter.  So with that said I’ll bring three lens for any baseball game (and this goes for all field sports) a 24-105 f/4, a 70-200 f/2.8 and a 400 f/2.8.  I’ll also have a TC 1.4 that will work very nicely on the 70-200 and the 400.

Positions:
Position #1, if the officials will allow me inside the fence I’ll position myself next to the fence at first base.  From here I’ll grab shots of right handed batters and left handed pitchers using the 70-200 with the 1.4 TC.  This position will give me a good angle for plays at third base and home plate as well fielding in the infield and the right outfielder.  You can try to shots of other plays of course, but if I can’t fill the frame on fielding, I’ll keep my lens pointed at the runner.  At this position I’ll also use my 400 to get nice tight shots of players at all positions.

Position #2, the second inning, I’ll switch to the third base where you’ll get good shots of left handed batters and right handed pitchers.   This position will also give you the best coverage on all three bases, home plate, and the left outfielder.

My third position will be outside the fence behind the catcher and get shots of the pitchers straight on.  I’ll shoot some tight with the 400 and some wider shots using 70-200. 
After that I’ll put myself on freestyle mode.   That could be outside the fence next to the left or right outfielder and hope a ball gets hit to them.  It could be hanging out in the dugout (with permission of course) to get some candid’s/emotions of the players.  Or when a coach puts in a new pitcher I’ll move to position #3 and #1 or #2 to get shots of the new pitcher.

Last bit of advice…don’t chase the plays.  Get in your location and stay there at least a whole inning at first.  There will always be plays that cannot be captured all any position.  Just be patient and get the plays you can at the current position.

Settings
As far as settings all of my bodies are setup using these settings:

I’ll typically shoot in AV mode shooting wide open (largest aperture for the lens I’m using which is f/2.8 on the 70-200 and 400, or f/4 on the 24-105 and f/4 on the 70-200 and 400 when the TC is attached), and then set my ISO until I can maintain a shutter speed of 1/1000.  But when the sun is high and there are no clouds will get a lot of shading on the faces due to the baseball caps.  If that is the case I’ll over expose the images by at least 1/3rd of a stop.  I’d rather see faces and have blown out backgrounds then not being able to see the face.

Other settings is set the AF to AI-Servo and set the camera up to use one of the back buttons to activate the AF.

Tuesday, March 12, 2013

Using a 1.4 TC on a f/2.8 Lens

Using a 1.4 TC on a f/2.8 Lens
I've been asked on several occasions if I mind losing DOF (dept of field) when shooting sports with a 1.4 TC.  The short answer is no, not in the least.

What and when to use a 1.4 TC.
 I'll use a 1.4 TC on my 400mm f/2.8 for two field sports (Football and Soccer) and for gym sports when I'm also using strobes as well as on my 70-200mm f/2.8 for gym sports when I'm also using strobes.

Field Sports
When shooting Football and or Soccer longer focal lengths are necessary when trying to get as many keepers as you can from the game.  Using a 400mm with a 1.4 TC will get you a focal length of 560mm (not adjusting for your sensor size which is a totally different subject.)  For Football this will allow me to setup behind the end zone and will enable me to shoot across the filed to the opposing 10 yard line without a lot of cropping.  Below are a couple of examples:

Canon EOS-1D Mark IV, f/4 @ 560 mm, 1/1000, ISO 200
Canon EOS-1D Mark IV, f/4 @ 560 mm, 1/1250, ISO 200

 As the team moves from one end of the field to the other, I'll remove the 1.4 TC and shoot at 400mm.  A sample image is below:


Canon EOS-1D Mark IV, f/2.8 @ 400 mm, 1/1250, ISO 800
As a side note as the team continues down the filed I'll switch to another body with a 70-200, and when they are near the end zone I'm shooting at I'll switch to a third body with a 24-105 f/4 lens.

Gym Sports 
When shooting gym sports the only time I'll use a 1.4 TC is when I'm also lighting the gym with two or four Alien Bee's AB1600's.  When you use strobes to shoot gym sports your shutter speed will be limited to the fastest sync speed of your body.  With Canon 1D bodies that is 1/250, which by itself will give you motion blur.  So you have to use your strobes to freeze the action (again a totally different subject).  To do this you have to shoot at least two or three stops above the ambient light.  This will usually require stopping down to at least f/4 or f/5.  So adding a TC and losing one stop of light is not an issue.  So I'll add the TC to my 70-200 to give me a focal length of 280mm which allows me to shoot across the court.

Monday, March 4, 2013

For Sale Canon 7D


 For Sale:  Canon 7D Body


What you get:  Canon 7D Body, a true Canon Grip (I've had nothing but problems when I bought a grip not made by canon). the original battery, charger, original strap and USB cord, all three CD's that have never been open and one instruction book NOT in English.  I"m not sure what I've done with the English book.  But they are available on line as a pdf doc.  And of course I still have the original box.  As you'll see it has a shutter count of 9,857.

I purchased this camera new at Roberts Camera in down town Indianapolis strictly as a backup and as a remote.

Condition Like New.
Reason for selling:  I currently have four bodies, and will be selling two (this one and a 1DIII) to fund the 1DX. 

Asking $900.00 plus actual shipping.  Shipping will be figured using the buyers address and shipping from 46176.  

Payment Method:  PayPal or by by credit card.  

Contact me by email:  warren@robison-photography.com

For specs click on this LINK. (Link will be opened in another window)

Here is a link to all of the available Manuals.  







Tuesday, January 10, 2012

Canon 7D Sports Settings

As the other settings I can't take credit for these either, but I found these settings on SportsShooter.  

Picture Style - Standard (but sharpness upped to 4) 

C.Fn III: Autofocus Drive
1 - AI Servo tracking Sensitivity: Set to -1
2 - AI Servo 1st/2nd img priority - Set to 0 - AF priority/Tracking Priority
3 - AI Servo Tracking Method - Set to 0 - Main Focus point priority (that way the camera focuses on what you want, not what it wants)
4 - Lens Drive when AF impossible - Set to 0
5 - AF Microadjustment - Set to 0 (Most people have said this is ineffective. Even the manual says it needs to be done on location where you are shooting to do any good.)
6 - AF area select mode - I have single point w/expansion selected and single point. Been shooting mostly on single point w/expansion for sports.
7 - AF Manual pt. selection pattern - Set to 1 (Continuous)
8 - VF display illumination - set to 1 (Enable)
9 - Display all AF points - Set to 0
10 - Focus Display in AI Servo/MF - Set to 0
11 - AF-assist beam firing - set to 2 (Enable to external flash only)
12 - Orientation linked AF point - Set to 0
13 - Mirror lockup - Set to 0 (Disable)

C.FN IV: Operations/Others
Shutter button is set to Meter only
AF-ON button is turned OFF (too easy to hit accidentally)
AE lock button (*) is set for metering and AF Start

Canon 1D Mark IV Sport/Action Settings

These are the settings I'm using for sports on the Canon 1D Mark IV. Like the settings for the Mark III Settings it has been very successful. 


I-Exposure
1-0
2-0
3-Enable
4-0
5-0
6-0
7-1
8-2
9-Disable
10-Disable
11-0
12-Disable
13-Disable
14-Disable
15-0
16-0
17-0

II-Image/Flash exp/Disp
1-0
2-0
3-0
4-0
5-0
6-0
7-0
8-1
9-0
10-1

III-Autofocus/Drive
1-0
2-one click above Slow, this is so any object that may move into your frame is slower to change focus other than the athlete you are on.
3-0
4-0
5-1 You are already focusing with your thumb, you do not want your camera to continue to search for focus.
6-0
7-0
8-2 This works great on the Mark IV, slows down focus reaction on the Mark III. Uses all the focus points within the center circle on the focusing screen. Works best during the day, night should go to single focus point and not surrounding.
9-1
10-0
11-0
12-0
13-0
14-1
15-1
16-1
17-0
18-Disable
19-Disable

IV-Operations/Other
1-3
2-0
3-0
4-0
5-0
6-0
7-0
8-0
9-0
10-0
11-1
12-0
13-Disable
14-1
15-0
16-0

For Canon's Official Custom Guide CLICK HERE.

Canon 1D Mark III Sports Settings

Here are the settings I use on my Mark III. (For settings I use for the Mark IV, click here.) I use these setting for all of the sports I shot and have had great success. I typically only shoot RAW, but when I do shoot jpg, I'll adjust the sharpness as noted here:

(Very Important) First thing I do is set up User Def 1, set internal sharpening to one click under max, then use User Def 1. Then set to sRGB.



I-Exposure
1-0
2-0
3-Disabled
4-0
5-0
6-0
7-0
8-0
9-Disable
10-Disable

11-0
12-Disable
13-Disable
14-Disable
15-0

II-Image/Flash exp/Disp
1-0
2-0
3-0
4-0
5-0
6-0
7-0
8-0
9-0

III-Autofocus/Drive
1-0
2-one click above Slow, this is so any object that may move into your frame is slower to change focus other than the athlete you are on.
3-0
4-0
5-1 (Very Important) You are already focusing with your thumb, you do not want your camera to continue to search for focus.
6-0
7-0
8-0
9-3
10-0
11-0
12-0
13-1
14-1
15-0
16-Disable
17- Disable

IV-Operations/Other
1-3
2-0
3-0
4-0
5-0
6-0
7-0
8-0
9-0
10-0
11-0
12- Disable
13-Disable
14-0
15-0
16-0

Tuesday, November 15, 2011

Quotes

“In wisdom gathered over time I have found that every experience is a form of exploration.” - Ansel Adams

“ You don’t take a photograph, you make it. - Ansel Adams

“No place is boring, if you’ve had a good night’s sleep and have a pocket full of unexposed film.” ~ Robert Adams, Darkroom & Creative Camera Techniques, May 1995

“ Your first 10,000 photographs are your worst. – Henri Cartier-Bresson

“It’s weird that photographers spend years or even a whole lifetime, trying to capture moments that added together, don’t even amount to a couple of hours.“– James Lalropui Keivom

“It can be a trap of the photographer to think that his or her best pictures were the ones that were hardest to get. – Timothy Allen